MONARCH USN WW-2 M-422A, G-1 MODEL LEATHER FLIGHT JACKET BUILD

Description: For a proposed build you are now admiring some of my custom made pre WW-2 type intermediate weight USN flight jackets. In this case I'm offering a reproduction jacket build from Monarch's 85958 M-422A contract. An accurate representation of Monarch's second intermediate weight leather flight jacket contract. Among the earliest M-422A issued through the USN. This contract was let in October of 1940 and of those jackets built would have been issued in late 1941.The 85958 M-422A jacket's overall design is a continuation of their just earlier model M-422 with few alterations. This jacket was recreated by me using a handful original mil spec M-422 (1940) and AN-J-3A (1943) model Monarch jackets from within my personal collection. Along with detailed photographs of an original 85958 M-422A.The original Monarch 85958 M-422A (seen in the descriptive images) is arguably from the most limited produced USN Intermediate leather flight jacket made to date. Had this model jacket not been listed in Mituhiro Aota's book FULL GEAR I might not have been made aware that this jacket ever existed. In fact so few original jackets remain I have been fortunate enough to have seen one example since I began actively collecting USN jackets in 2008. This jacket utilized the earlier model M-422 pattern with a few exceptions. Among those changes being a redesigned collar as dictated by the USN's October 1940 M-422A specifications.As per USN specifications was the addition of (seven) individual horizontal reinforcing stitches to the collar. Included was up to a 1" inch net decrease in its overall collar width to create a 2 1/2" to 2 5/8" (current specs) wide collar. The final alteration concerned the leather hanger which was made slightly more narrow and then attached to the collar's seam verses the upper back panel. Otherwise this is the just earlier M-422 model jacket complete. However the M-422A collar modifications were significant enough to change the overall look of this jacket. In the end lending this series jacket a contemporary look verses the just earlier M-422.As explained this proposed M-422A build nearly duplicates the earliest of the three WW-2 era Monarch jacket models. Most notably each of Monarch's M-422, AN & G-1 designs are unique. Furthermore each of the fore mentioned three individual model jackets are in fact unique to one another. Although this M-422A may visually resemble all later Monarch models, there are inherent differences between each. So much so that for a given size few if any individual panels are interchangable with one another. For the Monarch M-422 type jacket that difference is initiated at the shoulder seam positioning. That shoulder seam variation places the base of the sleeve into a slightly higher position than all others. Thereby demanding that all panels be adjusted to accommodate that variation.To derive my Monarch M-422A design I utilized 3 original Monarch M-422 type jackets (size 36, 40 & 46) from my personal collection as pattern jackets. Both the size 40 Monarch and size 46 (one of the two retained the M-422 pattern) are seen within the descriptive images. To fill in the gaps I did a detailed comparison study using Monarch's corresponding size jackets Therein, by contrasting and comparing my two original M-422 jackets with my later AN models from within my collection has allowed me to most accurately resurrect Monarch's M-422 and M-422A patterns perfectly in every imaginable size.Notwithstanding all the USN Monarch jackets within my collection were taken down to their individual panel pieces. While apart I patterned them complete. Thereafter painstakingly restored. Now robust enough to be worn on the occasion. Subsequently, I've made these same Monarch jackets my concentration for reproducing. A premier WW-2 military jacket maker I greatly admire for it's style, comfort and look. Above all other makers this particular jacket is my most favorite vintage jacket maker for both civilian & mil spec jackets. Not to mention since having duplicated Monarch's M-422, AN and G-1 model jackets I refer to them as my trifecta. Let me tell you all about what you can expect with one of my custom builds! The Monarch USN type jacket design is arguably the most form fitting of all the early WW-2 model USN leather flight jackets. Because of the lack of gut room this make jacket is best suited for those with an athletic build yet extremely comfortable if correctly sized to the individual. All jackets are priced using a seal or chocolate brown colored goat hide. In sizes 36 through 48 to suit. Let me tell you about the build. To begin I use superior chrome or vegetable tanned goat hides for your build. The hides that I have readily available are 1.00 to 1.2 mm thick. Much like these jackets were originally made. All the hides I utilize for my reproduction work are of a superior quality. Thus only get better looking with time and ultimately developing patina. If interested I also do a civilian version of the AN-J-3 (leather collar) using both the same AN-J-3A or M-422 designs in either horse or goat hide. Please see my AN-J-3A type here EBAY ITEM # 113834001395 or the M-422 type here EBAY ITEM # 115095896612. Then the W&G type of AN-J-3 as seen here EBAY Item # 403731020374 The M-422 type jackets seen in the descriptive images was done using super grainy hide seal brown goat hides. More smooth seal brown goat hides are also available. Another option and more expensive goat hide can be made using an over dyed russet hide. The over dyed russet is a most interesting technique. More often that not used by Monarch on some of their early M-422, M-422A and early AN model jackets. Given wear, the over dyed base color will eventually loose portions of it's top coat. As seen with one of my original AN-J-3A jackets within the descriptive images.Thereafter revealing tan or russet undertones to the high wear areas. The rayon lining material to be used for your build was sourced out of the UK. The only know color being a salmon or burgundy color. All in spite of brown being the specified lining color by the USN for this particular contract. This same proposed material to be used is the absolute thickest and correctly colored rayon I have ever found. Your M-422A model jacket will come with seal brown wool knits. The Monarch M-422A and M-422 waist knits originally came with a unique horizontal (5/8" to 3/4" ribbing) and vertical (rib/rack) ratio, weave and yarn weight. Please note that I have duplicated the knit sets originally used by Monarch for their M-422 type jackets for this particular build. Examples are seen within the descriptive images along with a typical hide I use for this same build. Your proposed M-422A model jacket is priced to come with correct buttons. The zip, a reproduction (correct M-39 model) Talon chain and correct original blackened Talon slider. Note that within the descriptive images I have attached a comparison image of a correct Monarch M-422 type Talon zip. The zip assembly seen on the right (with leather pull) is an 82 year old original zip assembly and exact zip which was once used for a Monarch M-422 and M-422A jackets. The reproduction M-39 zip assembly seen in the descriptive images to the left is what you can expect with your new Monarch M-422A jacket. Notably, to aid me in my reproduction work I have a complete copy on hand for the USN's 1940 M-422 and M-422A specification sheet. Compliments of the National Archives in Washington D.C. As a pre War jacket this M-422A build will be stitched using silk thread. Something that I discovered used on pre war jackets years ago through my restorations and first to implement with my reproduction jackets. Then later proved out after obtaining copies of the original USN specifications. Recently retired my vintage Reece 101 keyhole buttonhole machine and opted for a late model machine. Now used to recreate my USN type jackets pocket flaps and throat latched. I've included a few examples of that machine's highly detailed keyhole buttonhole work and a video of my new machine stitching a USN type Monarch pocket flap. Much like all of the USN jackets that I reproduce I utilize the correct USN stencil. To facilitate I had this particular USN stencil font CAD duplicated. Likewise the USN font for this maker and not unlike all the USN flight jacket makers is unique to this particular make and model. There is a waiting period for this build. If you are interested and want your jacket before the coming season I suggest you start this process now rather than waiting until the last minute as these builds take time. If interested please contact me David Sheeley at your earliest convenience to discuss your build. Please look at my other jacket options available.

Price: 1875 USD

Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia

End Time: 2024-09-21T11:50:42.000Z

Shipping Cost: 48 USD